When I returned to Guyana after an incredible trip back home, I was only in the country for a few hours before setting off to my next adventure – celebrating the New Year in Paramaribo, Suriname!
The New Year’s Eve or, as they say, Old Year’s Night festivities in Paramaribo are known around the world for the fireworks and celebratory atmosphere.
Suriname is a neighboring country to Guyana, and the villages where I live and work are actually right on the border. I see Suriname daily across the Corentyne River on my way to the hospital or health centers. Fellow Peace Corps Volunteers Catherine, Robin, and I opted to take the ferry over this river to get to Suriname for our long weekend.
We were warned that the journey on the ferry wasn’t the greatest (as opposed to flying), but for the cost of approximately $20 USD round-trip that was a chance we were willing to take. And I’m glad we did! It was far from my worst travel experience. There was some inefficiencies and waiting but with good company it wasn’t an issue.
We stayed in a very cute boutique hotel right in the city called Hotel Palacio. There were cheaper options, several guest houses that I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend, but just for the long weekend I’m glad we treated ourselves to a nice hotel in a great location- easy walking distance from all the festivities but with enough distance that we had some peace and quiet when we wanted.
Paramaribo is a nice little capital that is very clean, safe, and surprisingly-despite everything being in Dutch-easy to navigate. In other words, it’s pretty different than Guyana’s capital Georgetown! Although the two nations are next to one another geographically, they seemed worlds apart to us volunteers who had become accustomed to Guyana. The difference ultimately comes down to remnants of colonization. When Guyana became independent, the British left entirely and rather quickly, not leaving much behind in terms of infrastructure- something Guyanese are still struggling with today 50 years later. Suriname seems to have been a different story. Although they are recently independent like Guyana, the transition to independence went more smoothly and a lot of the European practices remained- a significant example is that the national language to this day is Dutch from the Netherlands.
It was very interesting to see the ways that this South American capital differed from what we had become accustomed to in Guyana. We enjoyed walking around, seeing the sights, and on the morning of December 31st, joining in the party on the streets!
We bought souvenir t-shirts, drank beer, and enjoyed the most extensive street-firecracker display I ever hope to see. Prior to experiencing it for myself, I knew Old Year’s Night was known for fireworks, but naturally assumed they would take place at night. I was surprised to find long trains of firecrackers that were lit down every major street. People were desperately seeking cover from the debris while also getting close enough to get a good photo and video!
After the excitement of the morning, a group of us wandered around a little, discovering a beautiful park of palm trees and having a late lunch before heading back to our hotel for a nap. The city was very quiet that afternoon, as everyone was resting up for round 2 of the celebrations later that night.
After a nap and getting ready we set out once again, this time to a hotel with a rooftop bar that had been recommended to us by volunteers who had gone last year. We were surprised to have to fight through a crowd of what seemed to be the population of the entire city to get to the hotel- everyone had rested up and returned to the streets.
At the hotel we enjoyed a nice dinner with accompanied by music from a lively band. The rooftop had a great view of the city below as well as fireworks-this time in the sky-going off all around. There wasn’t a big countdown, but a group of volunteers toasted to the New Year as the clock hit midnight.
Once it was officially 2017, the group headed downstairs, expecting the party to still be in full-swing, to find the streets completely deserted! It was a cultural difference we hadn’t anticipated. In the United States, typically if you go out on NYE you’re out for the big countdown at midnight. Apparently in Suriname, you’re more like pre-gaming the New Year, but head home before midnight to be with your family and pray for blessings in the New Year.
We were surprised to learn this cultural difference, but didn’t let it throw us off. We followed some music to a place called Zus & Zo where we had actually eaten lunch earlier in the day. It is a unique space that is in equal parts guesthouse, tourist center, restaurant, and that night- a party! It seemed like every foreigner in Suriname had congregated in one of the few spots in town that were still celebrating. It was all open-air, with a busy bar, live music, and dancing. We spent our first few hours of 2017 celebrating and thoroughly exhausting ourselves.
New Year’s Day was our last full day in Suriname, and was very relaxing. We wandered around the mostly empty streets and enjoyed our last delicious food experiences.
The next day we journeyed back via the ferry once again and before I knew it I was back “home” in Guyana. It was so strange to be back, and juggling so many conflicting emotions. On one hand my vacations were officially over for now, and homesickness started creeping back in. On the other, I felt a great sense of familiarity and in many ways was happy to be back and excited to see many people.
It was a big help when I could pick up my furry friend from the home of another volunteer who had been caring for him while I was gone – Thanks Lori! Dieren had a great time socializing with other cats, but I was pleased that he came running when he first heard my voice. I had missed the little guy!
Now I’m settling back into my old routine in many ways, but also taking the opportunity to re-invest myself in many others. I’m already making progress with some personal goals (sticking to an exercise routine, reading more, hopefully blogging more!) and goals with work- expanding on my counseling I had begun at Antenatal and Non-Communicable Disease clinics, as well as beginning some new ventures at a local NGO and secondary schools.
I know that the New Year is an arbitrary construct of time, but I love the idea of a fresh start and new beginnings- especially as I’m rounding the corner of one year in Guyana. I’m so happy that I could spend the end of 2016 at home with my family and that I could begin 2017 with fun experiences in a new country. I have much more planned for the year in terms of travel and life changes- so stay tuned!
Thanks for reading, and a belated Happy New Year to you all- cheers!